Here is the thing about Patara. I liked this small, quaint village that forms part of the Lycian Way trekking route, but a string of misfortunes during my stay made me feel as if Patara did not want me on its doorstep.
I’m someone who pays attention to intuition, and after a rather disastrous three days, I could not shake the sense that something—call it bad luck or a sixth sense—was warning me that I wasn’t welcome.
A series of events convinced me I wouldn’t return.
Soaked on Patara Beach
A couple of hours after I arrived and dropped my bags at the hotel, I walked out to the famous Patara Beach. This stretch of sand—some 18 km long—is often listed among Turkey’s best beaches and is a protected nesting area for the Caretta Caretta turtles.
I was photographing the broad shoreline when the weather turned. A sudden storm brought gale-force winds that drove sand into my hair, into my camera lens, and stung my eyes as I searched for shelter.
I reached a small beach hut restaurant thoroughly soaked. My clothes clung to me, strands of wet hair stuck to my face, and I trudged past curious glances, leaving a trail of sand and water behind.
My visit to Patara Beach had not gone as planned.
The Ancient Ruins Were Not Kind Either
Next on my list were the ancient ruins of Patara, one of the must-see historical sites on the Lycian Way. I expected a single vast site visible from a distance, but the ruins are scattered across the countryside—hence the map you receive with your ticket. I’d carelessly shoved mine into my bag without looking at it.
I enjoyed exploring the agora, the theatre and the market streets, but recent rainfall had turned paths slippery and muddy. While navigating the ruins, I slipped and landed on my rear, wrenching my pride and worrying I’d bruised my coccyx.
Walking away in pain, I told myself bad luck often comes in threes—so that was two down, one to go.
Food Poisoning Next
That evening I felt unusually lethargic and went to bed early, thinking rest would help. Around 1 a.m. I woke drenched in sweat with violent nausea. For the next 24 hours I was confined to my hotel room, violently ill and convinced I was on death’s doorstep.
The hotel manager was kind—bringing tea and offering to buy medication—which likely kept me from feeling utterly helpless. I called a friend in tears, convinced the culprit was food poisoning.
Let’s Not Forget the Mosquitoes
Living in Turkey I’m used to mosquitoes, but the ones in Patara seemed enormous and relentless. Despite using repellents and spraying the room, I woke up with a face covered in itchy bites.
Recent heavy rains and the nearby Patara Lake create ideal breeding conditions, sending swarms of mosquitoes out to bite any unlucky visitor.
Did Anything Good Happen?
Yes. Despite the setbacks, Patara Beach is beautiful and the ruins are impressive. Among Lycian Way sites, Patara stands out as one of the ancient cities of the Lycian League and is well worth seeing.
The hotel manager reminded me I’d simply come at the wrong time of year—August, he said, is the best month to visit—and he was helpful during my illness and in providing local advice. There was also an exuberant Italian co-owner named Luca whose manner and accent lightened my gloomy stay and made me laugh.
My Departure from Patara
When I left Patara to continue the Lycian Way, I felt intense relief. The village’s rustic, laid-back vibe is charming, but the chain of unfortunate events left me with memories I preferred to leave behind.
Would I Recommend Patara for a Holiday?
Yes, if you’re not looking for luxury.
Backpackers use Patara as a stopover en route to Olympos, elderly couples base themselves there to explore by car, and trekkers follow the Lycian Way through it. Locals said Patara was once more popular, but after major tour operators removed it from their offerings, visitor numbers declined.
Personally, I don’t plan to return—my stay felt marked by a run of bad luck that left a lasting impression—but I can still recommend Patara to travellers seeking history, long beaches, and a calm, authentic atmosphere.
