My excitement about visiting the Blue Cave was likely amplified because, as I set out on the path that led me there, I had never heard of the cave and had no idea of the natural beauty I was about to witness. My story begins with a trip to the Greek island of Meis and a chance meeting with Kostos, a local boatman.
Meeting Kostos
I had just stepped off the ferry that brought me to the colourful island of Meis (also known as Kastelorizo) and was wandering along the harbour, deciding what to see first. Passing a seafood restaurant, my way was suddenly blocked by a middle-aged couple speaking quickly in a language I didn’t understand. I shrugged, unsure what they wanted, and they began trying to explain in broken English: “Please — you come Blue Cave.”
Their gestures didn’t help much until a man nearby—Kostos—intervened. “They want to go to the Blue Cave but there are only two of them and I won’t leave until there are five people in my boat,” he said, pointing to a small speedboat bobbing in the clear harbour water.
Kostos embodied the relaxed Mediterranean rhythm common across Meis: a weathered seaman who seemed to have no concept of hurry and could wait as long as necessary for his boat to fill. When I learned the trip would only take about an hour and cost ten euros, I decided to join them. The boat soon reached capacity and we set off with Kostos at the helm.
Where were the life jackets?
I assumed it would be a gentle coastal cruise, but as soon as we cleared the harbour Kostos opened the throttle. Sea spray stung my eyes as the boat rose and slammed back down on the water. I clung on, wondering why I hadn’t asked about life jackets. The others on board looked equally alarmed.
After a while the boat slowed and Kostos told us to lie flat on the floor. We inched toward a narrow rocky entrance, and I lay on my back staring up at the stone ceiling only a few feet above me. For a moment I wondered whether I would feel claustrophobic and how the captain could see where he was going while crouched low to avoid scraping the roof.
Entering the Blue Cave of Meis / Kastelorizo
Any apprehension vanished the moment Kostos signalled for us to sit up. The tiny mouth of the cave opened into a hollow where the walls shimmered with intense blue reflections from the water. The light inside was low at first, but once our eyes adjusted we could see the scale of the cavern and the sparkling patterns on the rock. The sight felt almost otherworldly—like a hidden vault where pirates might once have stashed treasure.
On the return trip I no longer cared about Kostos’s daring driving or the risk of being tossed overboard. I had just witnessed a rare and powerful example of nature’s beauty, one that will be hard to top. Back on Meis, I paid Kostos and watched him settle in to wait for his next group of visitors, sharing this spectacular display that sits right on his doorstep. I hope he still finds wonder in it after all these daily trips.
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