Out of all my travel memories from around Turkey, the Ayder Plateau stands out for an odd but memorable reason. It was late June, and while friends on the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts were dining outdoors in warm summer evenings, I found myself bundled up inside my hotel room.
Despite wearing two pairs of socks, a jumper, a coat, and a heavy blanket, a penetrating chill settled into my bones. Daytime temperatures had been pleasantly mild, so the sharp nighttime drop took me by surprise.
That dramatic summer chill is explained by Ayder’s altitude: about 1,350 metres above sea level. As part of the Kaçkar mountain range in northeast Turkey, the plateau sits in a very different climate zone than the coastal resorts.
The plateau is home to Laz and Hemshin communities where tradition remains strong. Many houses and the hotels are still built from local timber, giving the village a timeless, handcrafted character. My guide told me it would be nearly impossible to buy a house there unless you had family ties—locals rarely sell to outsiders, and properties typically stay within families for generations.
Until the 1980s Ayder was mainly a base for hikers heading into the Kaçkar peaks. Over time, simple campsites gave way to traditional wooden hotels and visitor numbers grew. People come for fresh mountain air, sweeping views and a cultural atmosphere that feels very different from Turkey’s seaside towns. Some travel writers even compare the plateau’s green slopes and alpine character to parts of the Swiss Alps.
Exploring the Ayder Plateau
Altitude and mountain air make for deep, restorative sleep, and after a good night I was eager to explore with a local guide. The landscape is dominated by green meadows dotted with yellow buttercups and contented cows—scenes that looked perfect for an agricultural commercial.
When I asked why the cows weren’t kept in enclosures, my guide smiled as if the idea were laughable. Apparently, Black Sea cattle roam freely during the day and instinctively return to their homes at dusk. Local knowledge and animal behavior take care of what fences would elsewhere provide.
Another striking memory is the warning signs about bears at some campsites. The idea was thrilling but also a reminder to be cautious—bears descend from higher slopes in winter when snow makes foraging harder. In colder months the Gelin Tulu waterfall freezes into a curtain of ice that resembles a bride’s veil, which is how it got its name.
I loved the place: the creaky wooden hotels, the clear air, the brisk nights, and the sense of stepping into a different pace of life. For travelers seeking an alternative experience in Turkey—one rooted in mountain culture, nature and quiet beauty—Ayder is a rewarding destination.
Other Places to Visit
The wider Kaçkar region offers other destinations worth visiting. Uzungöl, a large and scenic lake, is popular with visitors, while the cities of Rize and Trabzon are accessible from many Turkish airports—Rize being known as Turkey’s tea capital. The remote Macahel area near the Georgian border is famous for traditional honey production and dramatic scenery, though its mountain roads make independent travel more challenging.
Because of the region’s remote roads and patchy public transport, many visitors choose guided tours based in Trabzon or other nearby towns. Local tour companies offer organized itineraries that make it easier to see highlights safely and comfortably.