I was pleasantly surprised to discover the St. Anthony of Padua Church while walking in Istanbul. Although I had seen it mentioned in guidebooks, I hadn’t planned to visit until I found myself standing right outside. Situated on Istiklal Avenue behind a large iron gate, the church is an impressive building dating from 1906. It is also the largest fully functioning church in Istanbul.
On a whim I decided to go inside, which led to a somewhat embarrassing moment. I walked up to a statue and asked my two friends, “who’s this bloke then?” Only after some raised eyebrows and quiet tutting did I learn who it was. In hindsight the likeness was obvious, but at the time I didn’t recognize him.
The Turkish Pope
The statue was of Pope John XXIII. At first the name meant little to me, but I later learned why he is especially significant to locals: he is often called the “Turkish Pope.” He preached at this church for about ten years and developed a deep affection for Istanbul and Turkey. He also learned to speak fluent Turkish, a skill I admire and one that makes me feel sheepish about my own halting attempts at the language.
St. Anthony of Padua Church
The church is described as Venetian Neo-Gothic architecture, and its interior is striking. Built at the turn of the 20th century, it served the roughly 40,000 Roman Catholics who lived in Istanbul at that time. This structure replaced an earlier St. Anthony of Padua Church that had been demolished.
Out of respect for those praying, I hesitated to walk loudly or to move around too much. The quiet interior, the religious art, and the lifelike statues made me feel a little uneasy. I have never felt completely at ease in places of worship and I’m not sure why; maybe I’m overly self-conscious in such solemn settings.
I do have one small gripe. As I exited the church, a tacky souvenir stand sat just outside the door selling miniature statues of Mary and Jesus. It felt out of place next to such a dignified interior.
Seriously, do people buy this stuff?
