Sanliurfa offers many notable attractions for visitors. Often called the “City of the Prophets,” the city is rich in historical sites, and among them the historic Gümrük Hanı was at the top of my list.
Constructed in 1566, Gümrük Hanı served as a central commercial hub. Merchants gathered there to trade goods and, if weary from travel, used the inn’s rooms before continuing their journeys. Because of its role as a business center, several bazaars and markets in old Sanliurfa grew up around the han.
One of the most famous visitors was the Ottoman traveler Evliya Çelebi (1611–1682). His travelogue is regarded as an early form of guidebook, and knowing that he had visited Gümrük Hanı made me eager to follow in his footsteps.
Entering the Gümrük Hanı of Sanliurfa
I passed through the large arched doorway and found myself beside an open-air courtyard. Large umbrellas provided shade, and around the courtyard shops occupied the ground level while workshops and storage filled the upper galleries.
The atmosphere was immediate and distinct: a lively local meeting place. People gathered in groups at tables, reading newspapers, engaging in long conversations or playing the local version of backgammon. It felt like a community hub where regulars knew each other well.
At over 400 years old, the building seemed ideal to explore. Normally I would delve into the architecture, observe daily life, and chat with locals. But on that visit I felt unexpectedly uneasy and uncertain how to proceed. I ordered tea and coffee to settle in, yet the discomfort remained.
Nothing overt caused the feeling: no one was rude, there were no incidents, and I paid the same price for drinks as the others. Still, I couldn’t shake the sense of being out of place.
Around 50 to 60 people occupied the courtyard that day, and they were all men except for me. I had never felt intimidated by being the only woman before, but in that moment I felt conspicuous—a foreign woman carrying a large camera.
I wondered whether I had grown more cautious with age or lost a bit of confidence. I don’t have a clear answer, only a lingering regret. Visiting a historic building in Sanliurfa, I let my discomfort limit the experience.
As I left, an elderly man selling souvenirs stopped me. “Are you a foreigner?” he asked. I offered a brief, automatic smile and continued on my way. That brief exchange made clear that I had stuck out rather than blended in as I had hoped.
Despite the awkwardness of that visit, Gümrük Hanı remains a vivid reminder of Sanliurfa’s commercial past and communal life. The courtyard, the conversations, and the centuries-old architecture together capture a living slice of the city’s history, and they invite future visitors to step in, observe, and connect.
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