I had visited Simena before, back in 2010 while touring Turkey’s southwest coast. The village is charming and traditionally simple, and I wanted to explore more of it. At the time I was with a sea kayaking group; unfortunately, nobody else wanted to visit Simena castle, so we moved on. That is one downside of guided group travel, but since I live in Turkey, I told myself I could always return.
It took four years to get back. Time has a way of slipping by, and I never quite planned the return trip myself. My friend Ali, who runs a sailing company in Fethiye, suggested a three-night gulet cruise from Fethiye to Olympos, and Simena was on the itinerary. I happily agreed.
Most visitors arrive by boat, since Simena faces the sunken ruins of Kekova and is best seen from the water, though the village can also be reached on foot from nearby Ucagiz. The name Simena comes from its ancient Lycian roots; in Turkish the village is called Kaleköy, which means “Castle Village.” The Byzantine castle that crowns the hill dominates the landscape and is the village’s defining feature.
Beyond the castle, the hillside is dotted with Lycian sarcophagi, some standing above water and some partially submerged, hinting at the area’s long history. The bay is also home to loggerhead sea turtles, which visitors sometimes spot swimming in the clear water. And then there’s the ice cream—locally made and, to my mind, the best I have tasted in Turkey.
Simena Castle
On this visit our yacht anchored in Simena bay and the captain gave us three hours to explore. Thankfully the rest of the group wanted to see the castle, so we started the steep climb up a winding cobbled path that passes houses and small stalls where locals sell homemade souvenirs.
Halfway up I was sweating and out of breath, my legs burning from the climb. But when I reached the top, the view rewarded every step: a sweeping panorama over the bay, the sun glinting on the water and boats drifting in the harbor.
The castle itself is mostly ruins; few interior artefacts remain and primarily the outer walls stand. Even so, the structure and its weathered stones contribute to the atmosphere, framing the unforgettable view that stretches from the ruins down to the turquoise bay.
That vista is what I will always remember. It was worth waiting four years to return.
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