In Turkey’s eastern Black Sea region, the coastal city of Trabzon combines a proud history with vibrant local life. Once an important trading port on the Silk Road, the city still carries echoes of that past in its architecture, streets and markets.
Throughout history, notable travellers such as Marco Polo and Evliya Çelebi described the area with wonder. In 1461, Ottoman ruler Fatih Sultan Mehmet brought Trabzon into the Ottoman realm, adding another chapter to its long story.
I spent three days in Trabzon, using that time to explore the sights, observe daily life and listen to local recollections of the so-called “Days of the Russians.” At the start of the 20th century, the city briefly fell under Russian occupation during the Ottoman-Russian conflicts; their presence ended after the 1917 revolution. Later in the century, relaxed border rules led to a wave of Russian shoppers who bought goods in bulk and returned them across the frontier—a phenomenon locals nicknamed “suitcase tourism.” When Russian authorities tightened regulations, the boom subsided.
Today, visitors are more likely to see Islamic tourists than Russians. Many women dress in conservative, full-coverage attire, and in the city centre alcohol is less visible; I discovered this firsthand when I realized my hotel did not serve alcohol.
Photos of Trabzon in Northeast Turkey
The City Centre
The compact city centre offers plenty of photo opportunities and is easy to navigate. I felt unusually confident finding my way around and enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere. Street life is generally calm: vendors are polite and friendly. Once, while sitting on a park bench, four young lads cheerfully offered to weigh me on their scales for a lira—an amusing reminder of local humour.
The Coastline
Trabzon Airport sits right on the shoreline, so the approach can feel unusually close to the sea. On descent I briefly wondered whether we might touch down on water, but the dramatic coastal view was one of the most memorable parts of arrival.
The waterfront is the social heart of the city. Locals gather in tea gardens, fishermen pass the time on the quayside and fish restaurants draw crowds who come for fresh catch and sea views. It’s a peaceful place to watch daily life unfold.
Things to do in Trabzon
A top reason to base yourself in Trabzon is the proximity to Sumela Monastery in the nearby Maçka district. Perched on a cliff face, Sumela is an astonishing sight: centuries-old frescoes and cave-like chambers carved into the rock make it one of the region’s most remarkable cultural landmarks.
Also worth visiting is the House of Atatürk, which sits on a hill overlooking the city and offers both historical context and panoramic views. The Hagia Sophia Museum and its clock tower (Aya Sofya) are additional cultural highlights in the city.
Many travel agents in Trabzon offer day trips to Uzungöl, a striking lake surrounded by steep, green slopes. Because of the long drive and the wealth of things to explore there, a day trip can feel rushed. If your schedule allows, stay overnight in a traditional Uzungöl guesthouse to fully appreciate the landscape and local hospitality.
Readers’ question: Which photo is your favourite? Share your pick and any memories of Trabzon or the Black Sea region.