Uchisar in Cappadocia is best known for two main things: luxury cave hotels and the distinctive Uchisar Castle, the highest point in the region. On my first visit I couldn’t afford the upscale hotels, but I’d heard the castle is visible from miles away and offers spectacular panoramic views of the fairy chimneys and surrounding valleys.
I set off from Göreme with a camera, sturdy walking shoes and a rucksack full of water. To save money I avoided rental shops and buses, and walked toward Pigeon Valley and then up toward Uchisar Castle. The climb turned out to be steeper than I expected and, about three-quarters of the way up, I had to admit defeat and turn back.
Not wanting the trip to be wasted, I spent time wandering through Uchisar village instead. That choice proved richer than any postcard view I might have captured. The village revealed quirky characters, unexpected scenes and a quieter, more human side of Cappadocia that made the visit memorable.
Exploring Uchisar in Cappadocia – Turkey
Narrow cobbled streets and unusual stone houses give Uchisar a storybook feel. The village is small and quietly policed by the Jandarma; one of their stations even sits inside a carved-out cave along the souvenir road. A young officer sweeping the steps didn’t share my enthusiasm — for locals, the cave station is just part of everyday life.
Nearby, Peri Café occupies a cave and offers multiple floors of seating. The higher levels deliver the best valley views, though the low ceilings require you to stoop as you move about. I also hesitated to use the café restroom, unsure whether it followed the European-style fixtures I’m used to.
Walking on from the café, I noticed a small sign: “My Old House. Entrance is free.” A man perched on the roof admired the view while the owner invited me to sit in the living room beneath a garden tree. I accepted and wandered through the cave dwelling, curious about property ownership for cave homes in the region. The owner told me he had sold a one-bedroom cave house for 160,000 Turkish Lira — a reminder that some travelers find real investment opportunities here.
Returning to Uchisar Castle
I left Uchisar that day with a few good photos and an impression of a village that felt partly frozen in time. Three years later I returned and stayed at the luxury Taşkonaklar Hotel. That visit was in November and Uchisar was considerably quieter than neighboring Göreme. In peak season the village buzzes more, but on this return the walk up to the castle was straightforward and I was rewarded with the dramatic views described in guidebooks.
Uchisar Castle rises some 60 metres above the valley floor. Because it stands out across the landscape, it once served as a lookout point, giving inhabitants a wide view over the surrounding area and early warning of any approaching forces. The castle is more than a defensive structure: its rooms and tunnels once housed up to a thousand people.
After exploring the castle area, I wandered into a small artist’s shop where a local offered to teach me Ebru (paper marbling) for 100 lira. I suspected the price was higher because I was a foreign visitor, so I declined, but the encounter added another layer to the day.
Although I have visited Cappadocia several times since, I haven’t returned to Uchisar more than that. I recall the castle, working horses and a rather smelly, old camel named Süleyman who seemed to dislike me instantly. One memory stands out: on a clear day I saw Mount Erciyes on the horizon, its presence more impressive than during my visit to Kayseri. It’s now on my list to return in winter for skiing and other snow sports.
Further Reading
For additional regional guides and ideas about Cappadocia’s valleys, hot air balloon flights, underground cities, and rock formations, consult reliable sources focused on travel in this region of Turkey.