When I started this blog I never expected Ortahisar in Cappadocia to make my travel list. Even after visiting the Cappadocia region twice, this small town had not appealed to me. Guidebooks rarely highlighted it and it seldom appeared in travel features, so I assumed readers and editors would overlook it. I wanted to spend my time on places that felt more rewarding professionally and financially.
Life changed my perspective. Personal experiences reminded me that my love of travel isn’t about publicity or profit but about learning the cultures, traditions and history of my adopted country. With that in mind, I returned to Cappadocia and approached Ortahisar with an open mind.
Ortahisar Castle
The town’s first striking sight is the rock castle (kalesi) that dominates the skyline. It resembles the castle of nearby Uçhisar, yet locals proudly call it “The Tallest Fairy Chimney in Cappadocia.” At 78 metres high, the castle is an imposing landmark. I paid a small entrance fee and started up the uneven, winding stairway, but half-way up my fear of heights and the flimsy safety rails convinced me to retreat. Even so, avoiding the tour buses and crowds made the visit feel intimate.
Ethnographic and Culture Museum
Nearby is a small Culture museum that also operates as a restaurant. The museum is compact, with roughly fifteen displays that showcase traditional life in Cappadocia. It’s interesting and well-curated, and can be explored in about twenty minutes. The restaurant area is lively and proud of its notable visitors, making it a pleasant stop after walking through the exhibits.
Beyond the castle and museum, Ortahisar doesn’t have an abundance of labeled landmarks, but that’s part of its charm. The town feels like a living community rather than a theme park for tourists.
Get to know the locals, of course!
Ortahisar remains a working town. You’ll see everyday scenes, like an older man riding a worn-out donkey, which underline its authenticity. Nearby Göreme has become more backpacker-oriented and can feel commercialized; Ortahisar retains a more traditional atmosphere.
I had already made friends with the owner of my hotel, The Castle Inn, who pointed out the town’s underground storage areas. These sometimes appear as small funnels rising from the ground or as doors at the base of hills. They look whimsical—almost like something from a children’s show—but they had a practical purpose: farmers stored potatoes, lemons and other produce there to prolong freshness before modern refrigeration and distribution systems became widespread.
House of Memories
The House of Memories drew me in with its name and old-fashioned façade. Outside I overheard a group of local men debating whether I would enter the shop or actually make a purchase. I went inside and found a fascinating collection of household items, farming tools, jewelry and local memorabilia. The displays offered a genuine glimpse into local life, even if I left empty-handed.
The Onyx Souvenir Shop
Onyx is a common souvenir in Turkey, and this small shop showcased countless hand-carved items: animals, chess pieces and decorative objects. At the back, through a dusty window, I watched a craftsman at his grinding wheel. He welcomed me in and continued his meticulous work, shaping slabs of onyx by hand. It was satisfying to see authentic craftsmanship rather than mass-produced goods imported from elsewhere.
Four Places to Go for an Amazing View over Ortahisar
For panoramic views, you can attempt the castle if you’re comfortable with irregular walking paths. There’s also a well-known viewpoint on the town’s edge. I enjoyed Ali Baba’s café: its wooden terrace is a pleasant place to relax, watch locals string beads for bracelets, and review your photos. That café also surprised me with a cozy wine-tasting area and even a bar inside a cave—quirky and memorable.
At sunset I walked to Tandir Evi, a restaurant recommended for its tender lamb tandir—meat slow-cooked in an underground oven. Set along the side of a valley, the restaurant embraces traditional Anatolian decor and serves dishes made with ingredients from its own garden, along with freshly baked tandoori bread. On a future visit I’ll be sure to sit on the terrace for views of the castle and valley.
Would I recommend Ortahisar?
Definitely.
If you want to be in the middle of the busiest tourist activity, Göreme is the livelier choice. But Ortahisar makes a great base for exploring the region if you prefer a quieter, more authentic experience. Some visitors hire cars to get around, while others join local tours. Even a day visit is worthwhile.
PS: If you stay overnight, set an alarm for around 5:30am and walk toward the castle. From the town center you’ll witness a spectacular sunrise and, if you’re lucky, the famous hot air balloons drifting over Cappadocia’s valleys.
